SPECIAL THANKS TO ERIC DECOLLIBUS FOR THIS SUPERB ARTICLE
Too often, I drive around in my 325i cabrio and see
other BMWs with horrible swirl marks, streaks, or other detailing nightmares.
The reason I notice this is because I do auto body work for a living. I've done
it for quite some time. I won't call myself an expert, however with the right
technique, your ride with gleam with joy.
Most of these cars have a factory paint on them called Glasurit. It is
extremely durable and can be brought back to life. If the car was repainted,
you're on your own.
Anyway, it appears in two forms. Base coat/ clear coat (most every metallic
color) and single stage (most every solid color). Single stage paint will show
up on your wax rag, so don't be afraid. Here are the steps I suggest:
Stay out of the sun! Wax and heat don't mix!
Use soft rags. Old flannel sheets are absolutely the best.
Wash it, rinse it, and clay it! Detailing clay is available at many
places. Don't waste your money on a "clay lubricant". Soapy water
will do just fine. After the wash and rinse, get some clean soapy water and
begin. Do one panel at a time. Soap it up, and with gentle hands, slide the
clay across the paint. The clay pulls a lot of the impurities from the
finish. Do not scrub! Slide. Done well, the car should be as smooth as a
baby's bottom. Rinse it all off, dry it, and pull'er into the shade.
Get some masking tape and cover any textured items (black moldings,
handles, bumper trim, etc.) Certain compounds can stain. If you can get your
hands on an orbital buffer, great, if not, at least you'll work out your
shoulders. With the buffer or by hand use any of these:
Zymol HD Cleanse (High quality, tough to work with)
Meguires #2 Fine cut cleaner (Will do the job, nice to use)
Presta 2000 (Nice cleaner, wipe splatter so it doesn't sit)
3M Dual Action (Beautiful to use, nice results)
Any fine cut cleaner. Let a professional use compound and a standard
buffer, but if you insist on it, email me, and I'll help you out.
Try to avoid excess product. It will only mix with the others and be
messy. With these cleaners, a shine will develop.
Next step is the proper sealer. Think of the paint on your car as skin.
The clay cleans your pores, the cleaner is like a washcloth, then we have
the sealer and wax.
We'll think of those as moisturizers. Sealer is a key part. This will take
care of any swirls left from before. You can also use the orbital
buffer(with a clean pad) with the sealer. The following work great:
Mother's California Gold Sealer&Glaze
Meguire's #7 sealer, or #9 swirl remover
Presta 3100
or anything that says sealer
This step, done properly, will leave you with a wonderful wet look The
car that is! Wipe all the residue off and continue.
Wax. What a wonderful word. Apply by hand, no machine. Below, I gave my
personal rating what to use. If you're comfortable with something else, good
luck.
Make sure you don't use a "cleaner wax". Those have abrasives
and hello again to swirls...back to step one.
Finally, demask the car, and give it another wash. Try not to use warm
water too often. Cold water keeps wax on there longer. For black rubber,
avoid any product that has a milky color. It'll turn brown in the sun. Use a
silicone product(Black Magic, Tire Wet, etc.) on a rag. Don't spray it on
directly.
Well, I hope this was helpful. Any questions or comments you can email me.
And remember...garage lights are not flattering. If if looks good there it will
be spectacular under the sun!
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